The land south of Puerto Montt crumbles into pieces to form the rural archipelago of Chiloé. Linked to the mainland by frequent ferries, the Isla Grande de Chiloé is a magical place of dense evergreen forests, undulating hills, small farms and picturesque fishing villages. Along its eastern shore are several tiny islands, many of which remain uninhabited. Being somewhat isolated from the rest of Chile and strongly influenced by colonial settlement and Huilliche indians, it is quite distinct from the rest of Chile. Spending a few days there will allow you to soak up its rich local culture, visit its unique wooden churches, sample excellent seafood and buy some cosy hand-knitted woollen jerseys.
While the people of Chiloé are unmistakably Chilean they are also definitely Chilote. They have a rich folklore with many mythological animals and spirits (sit down with one of the locals to hear their fascinating stories). The Spanish, who arrived in the 16th century, and Jesuit missionaries who followed, constructed hundreds of small wooden churches in an attempt to bring God to a pagan land; the result was a mixing of Catholicism and pagan beliefs. These unique buildings have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
More than half the population relies on subsistence agriculture. Farms are very small and cattle-drawn wooden sledges are used to transport hay and dried seaweed (which is sold to be made into plastic). Farmers, especially those on the islands of Lemuy and Quinchao cultivate both the land and the sea. There are now an increasing number of salmon and oyster farms which take advantage of the sheltered waters. Traditional boat building and handmade knitwear are also important industries. Although the islanders are generally poor, they are some of the friendliest people you are likely to meet.
When to go
Chiloe's culture is best observed in February and March, when many towns and villages celebrate their annual fiestas. Visitors can enjoy traditional foods like curanto (an ingenious feast prepared in the ground, with a mixture of meat, vegetables and seafood all thrown onto glowing coals and left to steam under nalca leaves), theatre, exhibitions and other events. Castro hosts the Festival Costumbrista Chilote, which lasts for 1 week, in February.
Summertime (December - March) is also when the flowers bloom, presenting a riot of colour along the roadside. Chiloé is renowned for its inclement weather. The western coast tends to be cold and wet and windy, even in summer; however, the eastern coast and islands are more sheltered. Summers in Chiloé are similar to those in England: a blazing sunny day can be followed by two days of rain, and sometimes summer just doesn’t happen!
Where to stay
Puerto Nativo is a real find, a beautiful wooden house located in a remote area of Chiloé. It's more of a home-stay than a hotel where you can really gain an insight into Chiloté life. It also makes an excellent base from which to explore the rest of the archipelago. The charming owners are very keen to show guests the local culture and also provide personal tours throughout Chiloé. They also offer special fly-fishing packages.
What's where
Castro
Founded by the Spanish in 1567, Castro is one of Chile's oldest cities and Chiloe's administrative capital. One of the town's main attractions are los palafitos, the colourful wooden houses built on stilts by the estauries, and the painted church Iglesia de San Francisco, built entirely of wood at the turn of the 20th century. For an insight into traditional Chilote life, visit the Museo Regional de Castro and for those interested in art, the Museo de Arte Moderno features works by comtemporary Chilean artists. A visit to the market on the waterfront, which sells a wide variety of woollen ponchos, sweaters and socks, baskets and typical handicrafts, is a must. Nearby restaurants serve inexpensive local dishes, including excellent seafood.
Ancud
Ancud is the first town you will reach if coming from Puerto Montt. Though not a particularly attractive place, there are a couple of interesting museums offering a glimpse into traditional Chilote culture. You can also see the ruins of the 18th century San Antonio Fortress which was the last outpost of the Spanish Empire in America. At the market near Prat Street you can sample some of the most exquisite seafood of the region at bargain prices. Try the wonderful seafood soup with oysters at El Tiburón.
Chonchi
Chonchi is a small picturesque fishing village on the east coast. It's also known as the 'Three floored city' due to its picturesque architecture, characterised by tiered houses built into the hillside. Heading south out of Chonchi you can take one of the roads along the interior coastline, through quaint little villages to hidden beaches and pretty churches, or one of the minor roads towards the interior of the archipelago and its lakes such as Tarahuin or other beautiful spots such as Estero Paildad and Detico. Finally you will reach Queilen, a beautiful and peaceful town well known for the fabulous surrounding beaches.
Parque National Chiloé
The park covers large areas of the western side of the main island and is mostly covered with dense native coniferous and evergreen forest. In summer its a popular spot for hiking and horseriding.
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